I have the optional internal ring (panel for closing off the vertical holes in the malt pipe) for small batch brewing and use it occasionally, but I don't find it necessary, really. Quote from: ynotbrusum on February 05, 2021, 09:17:30 am I use a coarse mesh BIAB as an extra internal filter in the malt pipe/mash basket. Best of luck and let us know how it goes for you. I like my Foundry (I hope you find the foregoing helpful for consideration, but many people have found interesting tweaks to get their Foundry to work best for them, including a return baffle or T instead of using the perforated top mash plate). Be sure to dial down the wort flow if recirc mashing, so you don't compact the grain bed too much. I would hold off the recirc for the 10 minutes, as well, just to get the grain bed set.
ANVIL FOUNDRY WITH PUMP FULL
I follow the recommended water volumes in the instructions to the Foundry, based on mash grist weight and sparge with a gallon of untreated RO as sparge water (I heat the full amount of water overnight with the timer function, drain off one gallon into a gallon insulated jug for sparging, treat the rest of the water with my salts and BTB, mash in and set the mash temp desired to be held, set the heating % at 65% and let it sit for 10 minutes before stirring). My grain crush has been at 1.040" for quite some time and my mash efficiency is between 68-75%, mostly dependent on mash time and whether I recirc or not (usually don't that often anymore). It may gain a point or two, I can't be sure.
I use a coarse mesh BIAB as an extra internal filter in the malt pipe/mash basket.
The double wall construction works well with temperature control, but in the cold of my garage, I think it will help with winter brewing a little bit. My next step is considering insulation to wrap the unit in the upper chamber, keeping it above the heating/vents area. With the pump already on hand, try it a few different ways and find what works best for you. There is nothing wrong with mash recirculation, though. The only time I had issues with mash heat fluctuation was running the element at 240V at 100%. I hold temps pretty rock solid in this manner, but, of course the time the heat runs is likely greater (if that matters to anyone). Lastly, consider putting the power at 50%-66% level during the mash, so the heating is more gentle. I go with a 75-90 minute mash often, but that is just because I want to get a few extra points. If not using a pump (I frequently do not - actually, I rarely recirc anymore, come to think of it), then consider frequent, gentle stirring of the mash (every 10-15 minutes after the first 10 minutes or so).
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